When Tony Met Andrew

Sometimes, great things come out of the simple joy of having a blether and telling a story.  Cast your mind back to Tony Heath’s #BigPersonality spot last year.  This pillar of all things foodie in Perth hit our hot seat just as Andrew Moss was re-opening the doors of North Port with his wife, Karen.

Andrew read about Tony’s life as a Perthshire restauranteur with much interest, not least of all because he was about to launch his first business in the very place Tony had made his name all those years before.  The story struck a chord and as Andrew’s reputation for fresh, seasonal and creative menus grew, so too did his knowledge of one of our Small City’s all-time favourite chefs. 

And so, after several dozen mentions of the man himself, the bold Andrew decided that having Tony back for a guest spot in the kitchen would be a bloody brilliant night! He called him up, proposed his idea and Tony being a man who has lived by the motto ‘Why Not?’ said yes immediately.

Together they decided that they’d offer a six-course tasting menu, featuring three of Andrew’s creations, and three of Tony’s from back in the day.  Being a lover of anything that involved six courses, and a big fan of both chefs, I headed to meet them for a chat before the night itself. How, I wanted to know, would they bring dishes created three decades apart, into one tasting menu? 

Tony: “Well, the flavours need to balance of course, but that’s the same with any tasting menu. We’ve come up with the dishes individually and I think that’s why it’s worked. We were using fresh, local and seasonal produce back in the eighties, it just wasn’t shouted about quite so much.

We opened The Coach House in 1983 and at that time, the pioneers of great food were people like David Wilson at The Peat Inn and Peter Dukes in the Cellar. They were picking up influences from the Roux Brothers and Maroc Pierre White – it was still mostly French based but we needed those fresh Scottish flavours to give the range of taste. That’s when the importance of using local started.”

Andrew: “1983? That’s when I was born” Oh how we laughed!

Tony : “I see these serious restaurants and I think there’s a huge pressure on young chefs to be imaginative and to come up with original combinations of flavours.  Done well its superb and I enjoy it, but I also think there’s a place for simple, good food, cooked well - I’ve really enjoyed recreating some of my old dishes.”

Andrew: “I agree, although I do think that the intensity of the past five years has started to wear off and its becoming simpler again. It had just gone too far!  I had duck with an earl grey donut and lentils somewhere recently and I just thought ‘How will you pull that off?’. We’re so spoiled for choice though, I think you want to create various little courses in one meal so you can try to enjoy it all! Like tony said though, it’s all about balance.”  

I want to know what it’s been like in his old kitchen but it turns out the kitchen has moved upstairs and for a tall man like Tony, it’s a low, low ceiling.  Throw in a gammy leg from a recent op and you’ll understand just how much passion the ‘retired’ Tony has for his craft!   

Of course, the night sold out almost immediately and I was relieved I’d booked my table of four as soon as Andrew emailed. It seemed only fitting the SCBP Team benefit from the advance warning and so together with Gill, Anna and Rhona, I settled into a window table in the back corner of North Port for a night of foodie heaven. 

My personal highlights were the chantrelles with gingerbread and the lamb, both simple, unfussy and full of flavour.  Anyone who knows me well will be surprised I pulled out these two dishes from a menu that featured so much fish and it has to be said, it was a tough call. The mackerel was fabulously strong and served with samphire – a winning combination for me. And although a salmon mousse might be so eighties it should’ve come sporting a permed bob, it was the perfect choice, texture and flavour to sit between the earthy mushrooms and strong mackerel.  My question of ‘How can this work?’ was answered by course three.

Menu

Scone Chanterelles, peas, broad beans, malt croutons, wild herbs (Andrew)

Hot scallop mousse with saffron beurre blanc, avruga caviar and tomato (Tony)

Mackerel Fillet, crispy chicken skin, pickled samphire, roast onion consommé (Andrew)

Lamb two ways, slow braised shoulder with carved loin, haricots blanc, thyme roasted potato and a rosemary jus (Tony)

Blairgowrie Strawberries, Alyth meadowsweet (Andrew)

Iced praline and amaretto parfait with raspberries (Tony)

Karen had pulled together a flight of wines as an option for the non-drivers and as I sipped on my elderflower and grapefruit it was all I could do not throw caution to the wind and join in as Gill and Rhona went for the full experience! 

As we sat debating the Autumn plans for Small City, swigging on espressos and rolling the dark chocolate petite fours around our tongues, there was a cheer went up and Tony appeared, hobbling on his still bandaged foot and yet managing to keep hold of his champagne, followed by a beer-swigging Andrew.

I could say lots of great things at this stage, but I think Tony’s late night tweet said it all:

"@SCBP_Perth @chefnorthport when an old fart joins a young gun and together they cook up a storm! Fun fun fun #memories"

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Look out for a repeat performance, as Andrew and Tony plan their next collaboration.  My advice is, be quick!