Perthshire's Glamping Paradise

As autumn slips into winter’s grasp, darkness falls and icy winds seem to waken from summer hibernation, it’s no surprise that we Scots seek refuge in the burrows of our sofas. Of course, I can manage a trip to the pub or the cinema, but there really is no reason to be outside in the cold and dark, is there?

Or is there? Maybe if you look hard enough, there is light at the end of the tunnel. Or should I say, in the woods.  

Every October, a certain magic descends upon Faskally Wood in Perthshire. Harnessing the amazing capabilities of sound and light technology, the Forestry Commission site is transformed into a multi-award winning experience which will quite literally light up your night. The Enchanted Forest is the perfect excuse to enjoy the outdoors and stimulate your senses after dark, even when it is a wee bit chilly.

I must be a fan; this year was my third in a row at The Enchanted Forest. Each year the talented sound and light designers deliver a new theme alongside the staple forest illuminations and rainbow silhouettes. This year’s ‘Flux’ theme is described on the event website as “all about movement and waves and energy”. It was definitely my favourite year so far. 

The highlight (pun intended) for me, was the spellbinding synchronisation of sounds and searchlights performed over Loch Dunmore. The glassy stillness of the water created a perfect mirror image of the frantically dancing beams. It was an impressive spectacle to say the least. 

I also appreciated the handsome Druid and his entertaining tales about the legend of the rowan berry, enjoyed over a cup of festive mulled wine. Show over, we would normally drive back to Edinburgh the same night. This time however, myself and my two friends would remain in Perthshire for the weekend at an adorable spot just outside Blairgowrie.  

The Ecocamp in Glenshee is a slice of glamping paradise, with unspoiled views over the Perthshire countryside. A group of us had previously stayed in the yurt which sleeps ten, so I already knew what to expect, and I couldn’t wait to return. This time, I would be cosying up in the new shepherd’s hut. The cute little structure, which sleeps four, looked deceptively small from the outside. There was a double bed, wood-burning stove, a dining area which doubles up as two single beds, and lots of llama print fabrics and photography. Why llamas you ask?

As well as offering a choice of glamping options: a yurt, shepherd’s huts, a bell tent and glamping pods, the camp is also home-sweet-home to chickens, geese, donkeys, goats and, you’ve guessed it, llamas. Llama trekking - yes, taking llamas for a walk on a lead - is one of the optional activities at the camp, as well as spoon carving, hiking, geocaching and beaver watching. Arriving back late at night, we simply snuggled in our shepherd’s hut, with crackles from the wood-burner soothing us to sleep. 

Waking up to clean, fresh air and a vision of rural perfection on a Saturday morning is priceless. Having a hot shower to look forward to is also a bonus. As well as being comfortable and beautiful, the camp gets a massive thumbs up for its sustainable practices; think solar panels, recycled materials, local produce and Fair Trade tea and coffee, to name but a few. 

We would have cooked fresh eggs from the resident chickens in the shared bothy, had we not booked a tour at Blair Castle for early that afternoon. We hit the road back to Pitlochry, this time in daylight, and with full appreciation of how unbelievably beautiful Perthshire is in autumn; a reminder why it is my favourite season. We managed to squeeze in a quick stop at Mackenzie’s Bakery in Pitlochry for a Full Scottish Breakfast. Now we were only hungry for history. 

Prior to my visit, I had only seen Blair Castle when in transit down the A9, its pearly white facade still visible behind a blanket of trees. Approaching the castle down the long driveway, I was struck by how well maintained and handsome it is. The grounds were immaculate, the sky was blue. I was keen to venture inside.

We were met by the castle’s Head Guide, a lovely lady called Mo, in the castle’s entrance hall; a ‘statement’ room embellished with unique arrangements of weapons. As with many such great buildings, the castle’s structure began as a singular tower. It was altered and added to over the centuries, first as a fortress in the 16th century, then as a Georgian House in the 18th century, and later in Scottish Baronial style. 

It is as if Mo - a retired school teacher - has absorbed the castle’s history simply from being there; her knowledge seemed limitless and her commentary was effortlessly engaging. Walking through the elaborate interior, Mo told us of the many Dukes of Atholl who lived in the castle, the rival military forces who fought over it during the Jacobite rebellions, and the string of famous visitors who have graced its rooms. 

At the end of our tour, we ventured into the stunning grounds to enjoy the outdoors in all its autumnal glory. Diana’s Grove shows off some of Scotland’s tallest trees, amidst leaves of bright orange, red and yellow.

A meander through the peaceful Hercules’ Garden is also a must. With daylight hours soon to run out, we left the glorious gardens and went for a quick nosey at the Garry Bridge, so that my friends could see where I bungee jumped on my previous #SmallCityTourist Perthshire adventure - The Only Way To Highland Fling!

While there were no bungee jumpers to spectate, the luscious bouquets of autumn trees which lined the River Garry were absolutely stunning. Someone soon hit the dimmer switch on the sky, as it faded to pink and quickly grew darker. That was out cue to head to the Loft Restaurant, just in time for our dinner reservation. 

Before our meal that night, I was yet to find a go-to dining spot within the vicinity of Pitlochry, after a couple of disappointing meals at recommended restaurants. The super-sweet and hospitable owner Jennifer served us during our meal, while her fiancé Stuart prepared the culinary delights in the kitchen. I chose the Highland Scotch Egg with venison and herb stuffing to start, and duck with pear puree and herb mash as my main. Both dishes were totally delicious. It still can’t be my go-to restaurant in the area however - they are relocating to Crieff early next year!

Driving back to the Ecocamp under a clear sky peppered with stars, myself and my buddies made a pact to visit the couple’s new restaurant in Crieff as soon as it opens. The camp was silent and still on our return, sparing the whistle of the wind, and the tinkling bells worn by the little goats. We repeated our routine from the previous night; wood-burner on, lights off. What a lovely way to spend a cold dark night in November. 

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Eco Camp Glenshee | On Our Perthshire Accomodation Directory Here
Blair Castle | On Our Perthshire Visitor Attraction Directory Here
The Enchanted Forest | Check out our 2015 Enchanted Forest Gallery